Archive for category Food

It’s my birthday, so Sue me

I don’t really know Sue Zemanick, but I celebrate my birthday at her place every year.

"Abandon all hope of not stuffing your face, ye who enter here"

For the past three years, my wife and I have celebrated my birthday at Gautreau’s in Uptown New Orleans, the well-hidden restaurant where Zemanick serves as Executive Chef. The place is so damn cozy (okay, small) that when we go there it feels as if we’re barging in on a private dinner party Zemanick is hosting at her home.
I’ve seen Zemanick there, but I’ve never actually spoken to her. She makes regular appearances in the dining room, chatting up guests while sporting a ‘Hornets teal’ chef’s jacket. I believe she stopped at our table once and asked about our meal, but my mouth was full of lovingly prepared rainbow trout at the time and my wife had to respond on our behalf.
My point is that, until recently, what I knew about Zemanick, I knew from the amazing dishes she prepares; dishes that stick with me long after I leave and that have prompted me to rave about Gautreau’s to everyone who has ever asked me where to eat in New Orleans. Dishes like, well, this…

I hope my last meal looks something like this (but with a side of cheese fries).

Delicious looking, no? Trust me, if you go to Gautreau’s, you should try whatever fish is on the menu that night (it changes regularly). You can’t go wrong. Here, let’s take another look…

I have a framed picture of this meal on my desk, next to photos of my wife and daughter.

So, if you’re getting the idea that I like Gautreau’s and that I’m a fan of Sue Zemanick, you are correct. In fact, when I have excellent meals at other restaurants, I refer to them as “Zemanick-ian” (it’s easier than “Gautreau’s-ish). That’s why I was tremendously fired up when I heard that Zemanick was going to compete on the spring 2011 edition of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters. When the show premiered in April, I put on my official, teal “Zemanick #1″ jersey and prepared to tune in.
Initially, I believed that Top Chef Masters would help shed a little light on just who Sue Zemanick was, but it didn’t. In fact, I believe ended up learning more about how reality TV works than anything else.
Outsize personalities rule the day in Reality TV and, I don’t believe that Zemanick was as wacky or “colorful” as some of the other contestants. Also, I have to believe, early episode editing of these shows provides more than a few hints about who will be making a season-long journey and who will be gone in a matter of weeks. From the word ‘go’, Zemanick seemed almost invisible. Sure, the roguishly-handsome-but-smarmy Aussie host (I don’t recall his name. He’s supposedly a good chef. Whatever…) occasionally acknowledged her (see photo below), but it wasn’t enough.

Don't trust Crocodile Douchedee, Sue. In the end, he'll take you down for a death roll at the bottom of the lake.

Sue was voted off in the second or third week in an episode that actually made me like Christina Hendricks a little less (for about 10 minutes anyway). I won’t go into the details. You can read all about it for yourself here or check out Sue’s “post-game” interview. What it meant was that I didn’t get to know Zemanick any better, nor did the rest of America. However, while it’s certainly a shame for America, I realized that this didn’t matter so much to me.
What I’ve learned about Zemanick is that she’s one of the best damn chefs in New Orleans and each year, her cooking helps me forget how old I’m getting. That’s the perfect birthday gift and all I really need to know.

, , , , , ,

No Comments

No More Clowning Around

By now you’ve probably heard about the controversial push by doctors and public health leaders to get McDonald’s to retire Ronald McDonald and stop marketing to kids. Well, I’ve been thinking a lot about this issue and I must admit that I’m conflicted.

Who would want to do anything to hurt this somewhat creepy face?

On one hand, I understand the public health concern and don’t want to see our nation’s children drowning in frying grease, but I also remember Ronald as a part of my childhood. He holds a unique position in the pantheon of kiddie characters, in that he was not only amiable and entertaining, but accessible.

What do I mean by accessible? Allow me to explain… as a child, you always knew the “real” Mickey Mouse had big ears and a shiny new outfit and lived in Disney World. He was definitely not the dingy, small-eared version dancing around doing ‘jazz hands’ at the church carnival. And the “real” Batman — the one you watched on TV? He was probably in Hollywood, not appearing at the local car show. But Ronald McDonald was different. Every McDonald’s was just as “real” as the next. If you saw Ronald McDonald during a birthday party at McDonald’s, then it was THE Ronald McDonald. He may have looked or sounded slightly different than the one in TV commercials, but the one on TV didn’t always look the same from one commercial to the next anyway. Ronald was an aggressively friendly, ‘down to earth’ mascot for the masses.

But, if the times dictate that something must change, then something must change. However, I believe I have a compromise that will work for everyone. Instead of “killing off” Ronald McDonald and crushing those of us who have fond childhood memories of him (and of Grimace, Mayor McCheese and those French Fry Tribble things), I suggest a Ronald re-imagining. I propose a darker, morally complex Ronald. A clown that’s crying on the inside. A mascot that will alienate kids, but captivate adults and make the ladies swoon (while simultaneously making them crave a Filet-O-Fish).

I have two initial suggestions. These are just a beginning, but they should give you an idea of where I’m going…

“Ronald Re-imagined” Idea #1: Ronald McDraper
Scorned wives, mistresses and office backstabbers make for one Unhappy Meal when Ronald becomes a magnetic-but-troubled marketing exec for an up-and-coming fast food chain in the 1960s.

Booze, babes, and burgers…Who could ask for more?

“Ronald Re-imagined” Idea #2: Ronnie McDarko
Ronald as a strange, bunny-like creature that haunts the imagination of an unstable high school student who’s obsessed with Quarter Pounders, which, in turn, are the key to wormholes or time travel or some such nonsense.

Dark humor, twisted plot, and disturbingly bad photo manipulation.

, , , , ,

2 Comments

Snack Foods Nobody Likes: George Washington Carver’s Nightmare

Behold, my readers, “Snack Foods Nobody Likes” has returned with a vengeance. Spongy, orange vengeance.

Ladies and gentlesnackers … I present the much-loathed “Circus Peanuts”!

No, these aren't earplugs. They're candy.

I’ll admit that I struggled with this choice for two reasons: First, there is apparently a long-standing blog tradition of mocking Circus Peanuts and I don’t want to be repetitive. They’ve been chewed, smashed and nuked by a Web site devoted to bad candy; used for prop comedy by one blog; and given the designation of “unappealing” by another. Would I have anything new to say?

Secondly, the things are just so damned unpopular. The question about whether or not anyone actually liked them was asked at least as far back as 1998 and, it appears that even the people who make the ugly things dislike them. Would I be kicking a candy while it’s down?

Nevertheless, I decided to proceed. Too many of my friends and acquaintances voted for them and I had fond memories of my first encounter with these puffy pellets of hyperglycemic horror.

I recall that, as a high-school student, I was out with some friends one weekend for a little innocent merrymaking. This innocent (and by ‘innocent’, I don’t mean Disney/Dumbo/Bambi innocent, but, rather “American Graffiti”-style ‘fond memories of youthful antics’ innocent) excursion involved convincing an older, bearded friend to buy us beer to enhance the night’s carousing. While milling about in the convenience store and trying not to look like I had any association with our bearded buyer, I came across Circus Peanuts hanging on a rack with other cheap candies. I was so amused by their bizarre appearance that I purchased them and they became the source of much laughter for the remainder of the evening.  

For all your moralists out there, fear not. Though we were circumventing the law and generally behaving foolishly, I still managed to learn a valuable life lesson:  Never, under any circumstances, should one buy or consume Circus Peanuts. Orange vomit is not considered “cool” or attractive by young women.

I also learned that when you slur “Circus Peanuts” it sounds a lot like “Circus Penis” and this makes drunk teenagers giggle, but that’s neither here nor there.

For the record, this site offers a bit of history on Circus Peanuts, but I have my own theory as to their origins. I believe that the makers of packing peanuts were simply looking for a way to recycle their product and/or make money off leftovers, so they chose to coat them in orange, goopy sugar (M&M-like chocolate shells wouldn’t stick) and resold them to candy brokers. See the evidence below…

 

Now...

Then

, , ,

1 Comment

Flavor Fails

I’m past due for a “Snack Foods Nobody Likes” post, but I’m still pondering the next selection. As it turns out, there are a lot of bad and/or obscure snacks out there and picking just the right one to mock can be a time-consuming business.

So, in the meantime, I’m going to tide you over with a couple of horrifying discoveries I’ve made in the past week or so. Technically, these are a bit too new to qualify for “Snack Foods Nobody Likes,” but they will, without a doubt, be on the list in the near future (providing they aren’t discontinued within the next few weeks).

Without further ado, here are the … Ummm … What shall we call them? Snack Foods Destined to be Liked by Nobody? Snack Foods Eaten Only by Drunks After a Hard Night Out, Promptly Vomited Up & Never Purchased Again? Whatever. You decide. Here are the pics… (avert your eyes if you have a sensitive stomach)

IMG_1421

New blog photos 001

Cheeseburger Doritos? Ketchup chips? Ugh. When will we see Pringles Salmon?  How do they get all of the flavors of a cheeseburger into a chip anyway? Does that mean that a chip or cracker can contain all the elements of a full frozen meal? Will we one day be able to buy Healthy Choice Classic Meatloaf and Savory Brown Gravy with Creamy Mashed Potatoes, Green Beans, and Apple-Cranberry Crisp Triscuit crackers?

** UPDATE:  For the record,  I do not think ”Catsup chips” would be any better. Probably worse.**

, , ,

No Comments

Snack Foods Nobody Likes 2 – Crunchy Salmonella

As you can see by the picture above, this week’s selection is the unusual Nabisco creation, Chicken in a Biskit.  Not Chicken Biscuits, mind you. No, Chicken IN A “Biskit.” Apparently, the chicken is not a mere flavoring, it’s actually within the snack. Also, it appears that a cracker cannot legitimately qualify as a biscuit, so the manufacturer was forced to create the new term, “biskit.”  I would have preferred that they use the Limp Bizkit spelling (Limp Chicken Bizkits anyone?), but whatever…

To the best of my recollection, I’ve never tasted this snack product.  I’ve never witnessed anyone munching on them, nor have I seen these “biskits” in a bowl at a party or at a bar. In fact, I’d almost forgotten that these odd edibles existed, but an old friend – one of my three readers - suggested them for this feature and I thought it was a perfect fit.

I’m curious about how this product came to exist. I picture some twisted scientist being fired by Tyson or Pilgrim’s Pride and selling his disturbing recipes to money-hungry Nabisco, which happily produced these “biskit” horrors. More than likely, however, Nabisco was simply looking for a way to spice up their cracker line and there was a process of elimination involved. ”Sirloin in a Biskit” sounded too much like dog food and “Fish in a Biskit” sounded too British.

So, there you have it. What do you think of this week’s Snack Food Nobody Likes? Have you ever tried them? Have you ever seen them? Do you have to wash your hands thoroughly after handling them?

P.S. I understand that Frog in a Biskit tastes just like…well, you know where I’m going with that…

,

4 Comments

Snack Foods Nobody Likes

I’m proud to introduce what will surely be a smash hit on my fledgling blog:  A regular, weekly feature highlighting delightful snack treats enjoyed by exactly no one.

You know you’ve seen them, but you’ve never seen someone actually eating them. Maybe they’re hanging on a full rack in your office’s snack machine or perhaps you were once forced to sell them to raise money for your elementary school. It’s possible there was always a bowl full of them at your grandparent’s house when you were a child.  Whatever the case, I believe these unexciting edibles deserve their time in the spotlight. 

First, I must explain that, for the purposes of this blog, I define “snack treat/food” as any sort of cracker, chip, nut, etc., as well as candy items (chocolate and the sour & fruity types). Generally, I don’t think meats fit into this category, unless we’re talking about your classic beef jerky.  While I think we can all agree on the popular snacks – Cheetos, Ritz Crackers, Doritos, M&M’s, Planter’s Peanuts, and so forth - I expect there will be some debate about unpopular ones. You may not always agree with my choices, but that’s okay. Feel free to comment and explain why.

There, now that we’ve got the introductory stuff out of the way, it’s time for me to announce my selection for the inagurual edition of “Snack Foods Nobody Likes.”  The snack food is … drumroll, please … Poppycock!

 

Poppycock packaging somehow manages to be both ostentatious & boring.

Poppycock packaging somehow manages to be both ostentatious & boring.

 

The official manufacturer’s description of Poppycock is as follows:  ”An indulgent candy confection and a gourmet popcorn lover’s dream. Crunchy and splendidly scrumptious, Poppycock clusters are a decadent blend of fluffy popcorn and premium whole tree nuts—pecans, almonds, and cashews—all covered in our Amazing Glaze.” While this is certainly an impressive collection of adjectives, it simply isn’t very compelling (“whole tree nuts”? Not sexy). In some ways, it’s a little frightening … “Amazing Glaze”? Anyone care to know what’s in that? 

The official website also explains that a man named Howard Vair created Poppycock clusters “more than 50 years ago as a snack to take along on tedious road trips through the Midwest.” This seems sowehow appropriate. A terrifically boring snack for terrifically boring car trips.

In fairness, I’ve never tried Poppycock, so I can’t comment on the taste. I can, however, say that the name is incredibly off-putting. Let’s look at the definition, shall we? According to my diligent InterWeb research, Poppycock is an interjection meaning “nonsense” or “balderdash.” It is also an ”anglicized form of the Dutch “pappekak,” which literally means “soft dung or diarrhea.”  Yummy.

So, there you have it. My first pick for “Snack Foods Nobody Likes.” I’ll be back next week with another boring/bad/unpopular selection that you can look for (and, ultimately, ignore) on your next shopping trip. In the meantime, I want to hear from you, so send in your suggestions!

, ,

3 Comments

A Bourdain Idea & a West Coast Trend

A couple of food-related bits intrigued me last week, but I didn’t have a chance to write about them. One is an idea floated by Anthony Bourdain in his latest book, Medium Raw, and the other is something I heard about on NPR’s Marketplace. Neither is exactly earth-shattering  or a creative breakthrough (in fact, both have much in common with the basic Farmer’s Market concept as executed in many urban areas, including New Orleans), but both are interesting and unique in their own ways. Either, I think, could work very well in New Orleans.

Bourdain’s idea is laid out in a chapter titled “Fear,” which covers the effects of the economic downturn on the restaurant industry. In the chapter, Bourdain describes the current trend of food trucks and the growing popularity of ethnic and street foods and concludes by saying that “if any good comes out of all the pain and insecurity, I can only hope that the Asian-style food court/hawker center is one of them.” Bourdain describes the idea more specifically: “Scores of inexpensive one-chef/one-specialty business (basically, food stalls) clustered around a “court” of shared tables.” He goes on to suggest that “civic-minded investors ” team with city governments to set aside space near commercial/downtown areas where this could happen.

DC trip and NO 065

I like the thinking and wonder if, here in New Orleans, there is something akin to this already? I like to think I’m aware of such things, but perhaps I’ve missed something. To my mind, it would be like a permanent Jazz Fest food area, but with more ethnic choices. Cheaper, quick offerings that would be perfect for lunch on the go. Maybe it could be done in or around the French Market? Or somewhere in the CBD? What do you think?

The story on NPR was about was about what is being called “Pop-up Restaurants” and it focused on chefs in the Oakland area who are taking their offerings directly to consumers rather than relying on traditional “brick-and-mortar” restaurants. It mentions the use of the Internet, mobile kitchens and a Farmer’s Market style gathering called a “Pop-up General Store.” It’s related in spirit to Bourdain’s idea and it’s fascinating stuff. Listen to and/or read the story on the Marketplace website.

Would love to hear feedback on these ideas and how they could play out in New Orleans (or if they already exist in some for or fashion).

, ,

2 Comments

Everything Old is Pretty Damn Good Again

Upperline

On Thursday night my wife and I met friends for a late dinner at Upperline.  There was a time when we made regular trips to Upperline because it was the site of one of our first dates (and, of course, because we enjoyed it), but we hadn’t been in quite some time. While we never ceased to appreciate the cozy, Uptown classic and we always took pleasure in the friendly table visits from quirky owner JoAnn Clevenger, something changed. The magic seemed to have faded a bit. To us at least, the food seemed somehow less inspired than it was when we first began dining there.

Nevertheless, when we heard the news that Chef Ken Smith would be leaving the restaurant to become a priest, we knew we had to head back for at least one more of his meals. And, damn, am I glad we did. I have no inside knowledge whatsover about the behind-the-scenes happenings at Upperline, but I can tell you that something was … different. That Upperline vibe was back. The place was packed, the crowd was happy and loud, and Chef Smith himself was making his way from table to table, warmly greeting the guests. Most importantly, however, the food – each and every course - was fantastic.

For the record, I had (for the first time) the “Taste of New Orleans” sampler menu and it was an awe-inspiring feast. The roast duck and the duck etoufee (two additional firsts for me) were outstanding. Hell, stop reading my drivel and check it out for yourself on Upperline’s new Web site, then  make your reservations.

Now, as for why the atmosphere and food seemed so much more “alive” to me last Thursday than it had several months ago, I have no answer. It could be nothing more than the skewed view of one goofball blogger, but I’d like to think that Chef Smith’s happiness with his new direction is being reflected in his cooking. Sure, it’s overly romantic and perhaps silly speculation, but, in an article by the Times-Picayune’s Brett Anderson, the Chef himself said that his faith is an inspiration in his daily work. In fact, in that same story, Anderson sums up Smith’s cooking far more eloquently than I ever could (he is, after all, a professional and I am in no way, shape or form a food writer), so I will close this post with his words:

“Anyone who has tried Smith’s food at the Upperline — the dark, dense gumbo, the nostril-flaring Gulf shrimp piquant, the duck-andouille etouffee that is filling in more ways than one — should not be surprised to discover there is a spiritual component to his cooking.”

Read the full Times-Picayune story about Smith’s career change here.

No Comments